Narcissus cultivation and propagation methods

Cultivation methods are crucial for the healthy growth of bulbs, and there are several techniques to choose from depending on the environment and desired results. First, dryland cultivation is a common approach. After digging up the bulb each year, small bulblets can be planted immediately or during September to October. When planting with single bulbs, maintain a spacing of 6 cm x 25 cm or 6 cm x 15 cm. Dryland cultivation requires more extensive care, with watering and fertilizing applied 2-3 times. It's not necessary to water frequently. Single-row planting can also be intercropped with other plants. Paddy field cultivation involves preparing the land in August or September by plowing and flooding it for 1-2 weeks. The water is then drained, and the field is plowed again to a depth of at least 35 cm. Basal fertilization and squatting are applied before planting. The bed width should be about 120 cm, with a height of 40 cm and a furrow width of around 35 cm. Water flow must be smooth. Sowing takes place from late September to October, with plant spacing adjusted based on bulb size—smaller spacing for smaller bulbs and larger spacing for bigger ones. For example, 3-year-old bulblets are spaced at 15 cm x 40 cm, while 2-year-old ones are at 12 cm x 35 cm. During planting, ensure the shoot direction is correct so that the leaf surface aligns with the furrow. Cover the bulbs with 5–6 cm of soil, add decomposed manure, and flood the furrow. Once the water has soaked through, drain it, cut the soil, and cover the surface to keep the edges vertical. Straw is placed on top to help retain moisture. Before planting, bulbs are sterilized with a 100-fold dilution of 40% formalin for 5 minutes to prevent disease. To promote rapid bulb growth and flowering, 3-year-old bulbs must be "castrated" before planting. This involves removing the side bulbs and peeling the outer skin. Using a sharp knife, cut the stem and disk obliquely from top to bottom, removing 7–8 layers of scales and digging out axillary buds without damaging the main bud. After castration, the cut will release white mucus, which should be dried in a cool, ventilated area before replanting. Fertilization is primarily done using basal fertilizer. Depending on bulb size, apply fertilizer every 7, 10, or 15 days. Initially, use diluted human urine mixed with a bit of urea, and later add appropriate scale fertilizer. During the growing season, sufficient water is essential. The roots and crown should be kept moist, and the stems and leaves require high humidity. Drainage is important during rainy seasons. For 3-year-old bulbs, string irrigation is recommended—water flows in one end and exits the other, keeping the surrounding area consistently wet. Afterward, drain the water until the ground dries (before the summer solstice). Leave 0.5–1 cm of roots and remove the rest, sealing the bulbs with mud to prevent them from falling out. After sealing, spread the bulbs on dry ground to dry, then stack them upside down in a cool, well-ventilated room for storage. Soilless cultivation is a modern method that improves traditional ground cultivation. A tank with a width of 150 cm and a depth of 30–40 cm is used, filled with sand, decomposed wood chips, or perlite. The pH should be maintained between 6 and 7, and nutrients should be comprehensive. Fertilize once or twice a week initially, increasing to 2–3 times weekly during active growth, and stop after May. Breeding methods vary as well. Side ball propagation is the most common technique, where small bulblets grow on the sides of the main bulb and can be separated in autumn and planted separately. Lateral bud reproduction involves removing axillary buds from the bulb, allowing the main bud to develop into a new flowering bulb. Double scale propagation uses bulbs with two scales, which are cut and placed in a mix of sand and water in a plastic bag under warm, dark conditions for 2–3 months. This method is effective year-round but best between April and September, with a high success rate of 80–90%.

Radial Artery Compression Devices

Radial artery compression devices, also known as radial artery compression devices or wristbands, are used to achieve hemostasis after a transradial cardiac catheterization procedure. The device is applied to the wrist and inflated to compress the radial artery, which is the artery that supplies blood to the hand and fingers. This compression helps to prevent bleeding and hematoma formation at the site of the catheterization.
Radial artery compression devices are preferred over traditional compression methods such as manual compression because they are more effective, comfortable for the patient, and allow for earlier ambulation and discharge. They also reduce the risk of complications such as radial artery occlusion and nerve injury.
In addition to cardiac catheterization procedures, radial artery compression devices may also be used after other procedures that involve the radial artery, such as transradial access for arterial blood gas analysis or for the placement of intra-arterial lines.

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